Thirty years ago a restaurant opened that brought an uncompromising approach to Moorish cuisine – that of the Iberian peninsula, North Africa and the Med – to Exmouth Market. Moro was driven by its founders, husband-and-wife team Samuel and Sam Clark’s time spent travelling through those regions, and helped spearhead a swing towards the produce-forward, bold cooking that we take for granted in London today.
Three decades on, Moro is going strong and the Clarks are firmly embedded in London’s dining firmament. They’ve helped shape our understanding of the cuisines of Spain and Morrocco, among others, and graduates from the Moro kitchen have gone on to open beloved spots like Bocca di Lupo, Carousel and Padella. (Some of them are even returning to Moro over the next few months for special Sunday lunches in celebration of the restaurant’s 30th anniversary.)
The Clarks and Moro are tightly woven into the fabric of London’s dining scene – so Broadsheet asked the duo what their top spots around Exmouth Market are, where they’d head for an on-point coffee and, based on their reported love for Chinese cuisine and dim sum, where they head for a great Chinese meal.
What’s getting you excited about London’s dining scene right now?
Many culinary cities like Barcelona, New York and Seville are so swamped with gastrotourism it is sometimes difficult to find great places to eat. Even though the climate [for restaurants] is quite hard at the moment, London is incredibly inspiring with its vast choice of high-quality independent cafes, bars and restaurants.
We hear you both love Chinese food and dim sum – can you tell us a few of your favourite spots?
We grew up going to Royal China in Queensway – Samuel’s aunt is Chinese and my parents adored Asian food, and we are huge fans of Fuchsia Dunlop’s books. Right now for dim sum, and just a five-minute bike ride from Moro, we go to Dim Sum Duck; both their restaurants (on King’s Cross Road and Pentonville Road) are wonderful. Super fresh and tasty dim sum. We also love Moro alumnus Ellen Parr’s regional Chinese restaurant Lucky & Joy in Clapton, and are looking forward to our Sunday lunch collab with her on September 20 at Moro.
Any businesses on Exmouth Market you’d love give a mention?
All of them! Most of the businesses down the street are independents – this is one of Exmouth Market’s strengths, as we are a real community. A special shout out to our closest neighbours – Cafe Kick sports bar, La Matiere ceramics, Botanique florist, EC One jewellers, Marby & Elm letterpress stationery and design shop, Briki coffee, Mikkeller brewery, Klinik hairdresser, Furanxo deli, and the new kids on the block: Passione Vino and Vesper.
Where do you go for good coffee?
Briki on Exmouth Market – a little corner of Greece in Clerkenwell; Allpress, Dalston Lane, who supply Moro and Morito with delicious beans; and Monmouth Coffee in Covent Garden.
What’s a neighbourhood restaurant you always return to?
Primeur in Canonbury, Trullo off Highbury roundabout. We are spoilt for choice. [They’re all] superlative restaurants in their own right, treating locals and friends [from] afar.
Any tips for a great takeaway?
We might order some star Sichuan street food dishes from Xi’an Impression, or a Thai curry from Plaza Khao Gaeng in Tottenham Court Road. But we make our own sticky rice in the rice cooker and wok-fried veg, which is a good compromise.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
Giacco’s on Blackstock Road. Our neighbour Anthon has been singing its praises recently and it is a short stroll from our house in Highbury. We need to go.
Where do you take friends visiting from out of town?
Moro! If we can’t say that, then Bouchon Racine in Farringdon or Quo Vadis in Soho. Diamond restaurants.
What’s your top pick if all you want is a good time?
Cafe Kick or Mikkeller for a perfect after-work wind down, or The Plimsoll for good vibes and delicious food.
What’s a hidden London gem more people should know about?
Corner Deli, Columbia Road – delicious Bengali food at a very reasonable price. And Polentina in Bow – it is a hidden gem in that it is hidden and a gem / well loved.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
Merlin Labron-Johnson’s Osip near Bruton; Etxebarri in the Basque Country; and any top dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong – we are planning a week’s trip there soon.
