Canteen opened with little fuss towards the end of 2024. It was the first non-pub venture by the team behind Public House Group (The Pelican, The Hero, The Hart et al), and quickly drew queues for head chef Jessica Filbey’s knack for cooking Italian classics (the walk-in-only policy probably contributed). She mastered the cooking of the boot over more than five years on the pans at River Cafe. Here, Filbey shares where else in London does great Italian, the underrated gems more Londoners ought to know about and the tahini banana bread she finds “addictive”.
What’s exciting you about London’s restaurant and dining scene right now?
Everything! It’s London. It never stands still. There are always new places popping up, new ideas, new chefs doing interesting things. It’s competitive and dynamic and that’s what makes it so special.
Canteen draws queues for its Italian cooking. What other Italian spots are queue-worthy?
I’m a big fan of Ida in Queen’s Park – Simonetta [Wenkert] and Avi [Reichenbach] are amazing. It’s family-owned and the perfect little neighbourhood trattoria. They make fresh pasta every day; the tagliatelle al ragù marchigiano is so good.
I also love Panella underneath the Trellick tower – it’s an unassuming little deli that serves traditional dishes from Palermo. They make one lasagne a day and when they’re out, they’re out.
I’m also desperate to try Dara [Klein]’s restaurant, Tiella!
What’s your favourite coffee spot?
I love stopping into Layla on my way to work. Their tahini banana bread is addictive.
Golborne Deli, opposite Canteen, also does great coffee – they use my favourite Butterworth & Son beans from Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk.
Any tips for a great takeaway?
I’m always a bit disappointed when I get takeaways, but the shredded chicken pho from Med Salleh Viet is like a huge hug in a bowl. It’s fresh, fragrant and bursting with flavour. It’s medicine.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
I had an incredible meal at Anglothai – John and Desiree [Chantarasak] are a brilliant partnership, and the food, cocktails and atmosphere are all spot on.
I also love 40 Maltby Street, and Andrew Edmunds is so charming and cosy.
Where should we take out-of-towners?
Quo Vadis for a Martini and an eel sandwich, sitting outside on the streets of Soho. Their puddings are legendary too – ice-cream, custard and cream all on the same plate. Heaven.
Where to go when all you want is a good time?
The French House. I’ll have confit garlic with goat’s curd on sourdough toast, roast Cornish pollock with saffron fish soup and finish with the fresh madeleines (the best you’ve ever tasted – always order a dozen, not six!), then head downstairs for a pint or two. The perfect evening.
I’ve celebrated my last two birthdays at The Waterman’s Arms in Barnes – the food is exceptional and the cocktails and vibes are so fun.
What’s an under-the-radar gem more people should know about?
Lao Dao on Walworth Road. It’s the sister restaurant to [Camberwell’s] Silk Road and they serve delicious traditional Chinese Xinjiang food and it’s cheap as chips.
I used to live in Kennington and loved going to Italo in Bonnington Square. It’s a quirky deli with a simple daily changing menu – focaccia sandwiches stuffed with delicious things like roast chicken, lemon and dill yoghurt, spiced harissa cucumber and sumac, or tasty plates of butterbeans, chorizo and honey roast shallots with sourdough toast.
I also love Lanzhou Lamian Noodle Bar [in Covent Garden]. They make fresh hand-pulled noodles every day. It’s a bit a of a squeeze when you’re in there, but it’s so worth it.
The cheesecake from Harley’s Butchery & Rotisserie in Hampstead is the best I’ve ever had – they make it fresh every day. It’s not cheap, but you’ve got to do it.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
I’ve never been to Core by Clare Smyth and I’d love to go. She’s an absolute wizard.
I was lucky enough to work at Chez Panisse in California for several months. I’d go back in a heartbeat – it’s a very special place.
