Back in 2021, London welcomed its first Bar des Pres, an outpost of the slick Parisian restaurant by chef Cyril Lignac. A household name in France, known for his many television appearances and stable of restaurants, Lignac went on to open other Bar des Pres sites in Dubai and Saint Barth.
Earlier this month, Lignac relocated Bar des Pres to a new site in Mayfair, complete with a new menu and a fit-out by Barcelona-based Lazaro Rosa Violan Studio, which blends French decorative tradition with East Asian sensibilities. Here, splashes of cherry wood, mahogany table tops and deep peacock-blue details warm up the lofty ceilings and long stretches of marble.
Like Lignac’s far-flung restaurant empire, the new menu is a globe-trotting affair with a sashimi and maki menu that stars Wagyu, and hearty mains of Scottish langoustine bisque or Chilean sea bass. Yet the desserts don’t stray too far from Lignac’s roots; you’ll find classic profiteroles or vanilla mille-feuille to finish. And, in step with the Martini renaissance, the new cocktail list includes the Japatini, a bright citrussy twist sharpened with togarashi (an umami chilli spice).
A menu highlight? The Wagyu Smash Burger, which was first introduced in Dubai but is new to London.
“What I love about this burger is that it brings together different influences that are very important to me,” Lignac tells Broadsheet.
Lignac begins with Wagyu from the volcanic plains of Kagoshima. “We mince it in-house every day to preserve the texture and flavour of the meat. The patties are smashed very thin on the grill so they become beautifully crisp on the edges while remaining juicy inside – this contrast of textures is very important.”
Then comes the cheese – British red cheddar – “slightly caramelised on the grill for extra depth and crunch”. Then there’s fresh white onions, chipotle mayonnaise, and finally, Lignac’s barbecue sauce, which he developed years ago at his Paris restaurant Au Pres. “What makes it interesting is that it is not the thick, smoky American-style barbecue sauce loaded with molasses,” he explains. “My version is more inspired by the French bistro style, sweet and sour, glossy, lightly spicy, and designed to complement grilled meat rather than overpower it. It is made with a tomato base, finely cooked onions, cassonade sugar, white balsamic vinegar, a little water for texture, and Tabasco for heat.”
In Lignac’s view, the burger represents the spirit of Bar des Pres’s new iteration: “playful, international, generous … I always want our cuisine to feel elegant but also full of emotion and pleasure.”
Bar des Pres is now open at 41A South Audley Street, W1K 2PS.
