There are plenty of Aussies and Americans in London. But the fast, affordable, high-quality takeaway sushi counters found everywhere in LA and Sydney? Not so much.
That’s where Milk Beach founder Elliot Milne comes in. This summer he’ll open Saltwater, a quick-service sushi spot in Soho with not a pre-packaged plastic tray in sight (in fact, the sushi will be served in biodegradable packaging made from seaweed).
It’ll have a menu by chef Shaulan Steenson (ex-Endo at the Rotunda, Tokyo’s Hakkoku) and executive chef Tom Cajone (ex-The Parakeet, Granger & Co, Zafferano) on the tools. “Too often, sushi is piled into plastic trays and lacks freshness or personality,” Milne said in a statement. “With Saltwater, we want to bring restaurant-quality sushi into a more accessible format, giving guests the freedom to choose from a wide range of freshly made handrolls, nigiri and hot rice bowls.”
Handrolls – which are made like maki, but aren’t sliced into rounds – will include bluefin tuna with avocado and fermented chilli, and chicken schnitzel with avocado and spicy mayo. There’ll also be nigiri of seared Norwegian salmon with miso glaze, and hamachi with jalapeño and ponzu. Donburi bowls, including sesame miso chicken, teriyaki chicken schnitzel with kewpie, and fried aubergine with maple black vinegar glaze, will be made to order. Diners will order handrolls and nigiri, which are made on-site, piece by piece from behind a counter (a bit like you would order treats at a bakery).
Aside from the freshness, the quality of seafood will set Saltwater apart from the takeaway sushi chains that dominate London’s affordable sushi scene. It’ll be supplied by True World Foods, which also works with restaurants like Nobu and Roka, and is certified by the Marine Stewardship Council and Aquaculture Stewardship Council. Bluefin tuna will come from Balfegó in Spain, and salmon from Scotland, Norway and the Faroe Islands. Meanwhile, short-grain rice is sourced from South Korea’s Hadong region.
Saltwater will be open for lunch and dinner on Berwick Street, with capacity for 50 behind its large windows, which will be opened out to the street on warm days. It’ll be a busy summer for Milne, who recently announced he’s turning his original Milk Beach restaurant in Queen’s Park into a wine bar and restaurant, Bar Blondie. “London needs better takeaway sushi,” Milne says, “and Saltwater is here to deliver it.”
Saltwater opens at 3–4 Berwick Street, W1F0DR this summer.
