Since Ollie Gold opened the first Pophams Bakery in Islington in 2017, it has consistently been one of the best pastry purveyors in the city. Its maple bacon croissant and cheese and marmite swirl quickly became staples of the London food scene, while its innovative viennoiserie brought queues every weekend.
In June 2019, Pophams took over the former Raw Duck site on Richmond Road in London Fields with a minimal yet cosy bakery that became an instant hit with locals. This was quickly followed by a new concept in the same space – an evening pasta restaurant which gave the same care and attention to the small menu of house-made pasta dishes as it did to pastries.
Anyone coming in for their daily coffee and croissant could watch head chef Rae Arends and her team hand shaping lesser-known pasta shapes in the open kitchen. The lights were turned down each evening from 6pm and these delicate pastas were served sharing plate-style with seasonal combinations such as mortadella, pea and pistachio pesto, pollock, pepper and tomato and osso bucco (veal shank) with saffron cream and gremolata.
But yesterday, September 9, the restaurant announced that it will be stopping service at the end of October due to rising costs of produce, bills, rent and labour, and and the unpredictability of bookings early in the week. “Running an evening restaurant over the past six years has been a huge challenge,” the team wrote on Instagram. “We’ve worked hard to adapt, but despite our team’s best efforts, the balance has become increasingly hard to maintain.
“That said, the experience has also been hugely rewarding. Creating a space where people could come together to enjoy great food, and working alongside such a talented and dedicated team, has been something we’re incredibly proud of.”
The restaurant will remain open from Wednesday to Saturday until October 30. “We are all driven and determined to finish on a high note and go out with a bang,” Pophams writes. “We would love as many of you as possible to come and dine with us one more time and help us finish in style.”
The London Fields bakery will continue to open each day for pastries and lunch dishes. Pophams Home – its small homewares shop next door – will also remain open.
Pophams London Fields
197 Richmond Road, London E8 3NJ
Hours:
September:
Tue to Sat 6pm–11pm
October:
Wed to Sat 6pm–11pm
