First Look: Sri Lankan Street Food Is the Star at Adoh, the Colourful New Diner From the Kolamba Team

Photo: Amy Heycock

Start with as many snacks as you can – like crispy mutton rolls and chilli prawn toast – before digging into a Sri Lankan take on chicken and waffles, plus four versions of kothu.

Back in 2019, Eroshan and Aushi Meewella opened their Soho restaurant Kolamba. The goal? To serve what they call the “food of the island”: the traditional dishes they love from their home country, prepared just as they are in Sri Lanka. The husband-and-wife duo had never opened a restaurant before – they own design and property development company Whitebox London – but the venture proved a hit. So much so, they opened a more elevated second venue, Kolamba East, in Spitalfields last year.

Now, the couple is taking a different direction with the launch of Adoh: a casual, walk-in only eatery inspired by Sri Lanka’s vibrant street food culture. The name comes from a popular Sri Lankan exclamation used as a greeting or in surprise.

Adoh is intentionally more accessible than Kolamba and Kolamba East. “We’ve kept it quite affordable, because it is street food and we want to showcase it to as many people as possible,” Eroshan tells Broadsheet.

The menu is different, too. “The Kolamba brand is pure Sri Lankan food,” says Eroshan. “[But] Adoh, [where the menu is] 95 per cent pure Sri Lankan food, has the odd dish here and there where we’ve decided to have a bit of fun.” A prime example is a Sri Lankan take on chicken and waffles, which is inspired by Aushi’s childhood. The waffle is made with curry leaf, and it’s topped with fried chicken and curry sauce. There are also plans for a version served with kithul, a Sri Lankan condiment that tastes like a smoky maple syrup.

Start with as many snacks as you can: crispy mutton rolls; vadai (savoury lentil doughnuts) dipped in tomato, coconut and mint chutneys; and chilli prawn toast with tamarind sauce.

But the star of the show is the kothu, which Eroshan says is “probably the most well-known street food in Sri Lanka”. It’s a dish of chopped roti, vegetables and eggs, tossed on a grill and finished with a curry gravy. Choose from four versions: chicken, crab, mutton or jackfruit. Other mains include a hearty rice and curry plate and “roadside” seafood fried rice. For dessert, there’s a fluffy soft serve made with salted jaggery, a palm sugar native to Sri Lanka.

Harbour Brewing supplies a single draught beer (a customary Sri Lankan pairing) and wines are sourced by Uncharted Wines. Keeping in theme, the cocktail list plays with classic Sri Lankan ingredients; the kithul rum punch and coconut Negronis are highlights.

Whitebox and Sri Lankan creative studio Fold Media Collective have brought the street food concept to life with plastic chairs, stainless steel stools, patterned and cement-like tiles, and plenty of brick. There are also two custom murals from Sri Lankan artist Ruwangi “Roo” Amarasinghe, including an enormous bright red mural at the back of the restaurant depicting island life and street culture. Eroshan says it’s “the real heart and soul of the restaurant”.

Aushi’s childhood friend Leah Marikkar and Fold Media Collective are responsible for the vibrant branding splashed across the menus and signs. It blends hand-drawn illustrations, bold typography and a vibrant palette of red, teal and yellow. Adding to the experience: a modern Sri Lankan playlist, leaning into high-energy house, which booms in the background.

Adoh
36 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LJ

Hours:
Mon to Thu 11.30am–10pm
Fri & Sat 11.30am–10.30pm
Sun 11.30am–9pm

adoh.co.uk
@adoh.ldn