Mitch Tonks knows his way around fish. The chef and restaurateur has been a guiding light in the UK’s seafood scene for 30 years, first with the Bath fishmonger he opened in the mid ’90s, and now with his seafood empire, which includes numerous outposts of his Rockfish restaurant group, which have become Devon staples since the first opened in Dartmouth in 2010, and his elegant Dartmouth diner The Seahorse. Along the way, he’s advocated for sustainable seafood, promoted British fishing and highlighted the versatility of the daily catch. And tomorrow, March 17, he’ll open the 11th Rockfish, in Sidmouth on the Devon coastline.
The 88-seat restaurant has taken over a 19th-century army drill hall on the Sidmouth seafront and retained its historic charm with exposed brickwork and high ceilings. Like its predecessors, the menu will follow what’s available at Devon’s Brixham Market – think battered and fried haddock, a wild prawn burger and spider crab croquettes.
To mark the launch, Broadsheet asked Brixham-based Tonks to share his guide to Devon – and where he’s loving now he’s getting to know the rust-red cliffs and charming village of Sidmouth. “Brixham is definitely home, the coastline is beautiful, the sea is clear, and walks on Berry Head offer sweeping views of the south west coast,” he tells Broadsheet. “The community is strong and works together to bring about various events that celebrate Devon life – particularly the seafood which is central to Brixham living.”
Here, Tonks tells us how to make the most of Devon (and a bit of Cornwall, too).
Where would you recommend visitors to Sidmouth stay?
The Harbour Hotel. Great service, a lovely bar and comfortable beds. I’m looking forward to trying out a few other local places though!
Rockfish and The Seahorse notwithstanding, where in Devon do you eat seafood?
Darts Farm near Exeter offers a great selection of seafood on its Farm Table menu, including fish cooked over fire and simple plates. I also like to go to Goto, the small Japanese restaurant in Exeter that serves amazing sushi. Further afield, I would travel for hours to eat at Argoe, Rich Adams’s restaurant in Newlyn, Cornwall, just as I would Outlaw’s, also in Cornwall – Nathan Outlaw is a genius and my own seafood hero.
How about non-seafood spots?
The East in the West curry house in Paignton has never let me down; I’ve been going there for years and have to get my regular fix. I also like Outside at Bantham and Emelia in Ashburton.
You can’t eat out all the time. Where do you buy produce if you want to cook at home?
Darts Farm. The veg is the real deal, grown right outside the shop itself.
Where do you go to swim or surf?
I’m not a great surfer but I do go to Bantham and splash about. Swimming off Breakwater Beach in Brixham on a clear day is hard to beat.
Any stores you’d like to shout out?
Mesopotamia in Exeter – it’s a brilliant Turkish store, they have everything you need and are super helpful. Also, travel to the KW Brothers Chinese supermarket in Plymouth, it’s brilliant!
And any under-the-radar Sidmouth spots?
I’m so new to the town and I haven’t got any yet, so I’m looking forward to finding out a few myself! I do, however, like the little Bagel Shop that’s tucked away in the middle of town. Lovely people and great bagels and coffee.
