We are well into the throes of summer now, which means park dates, pub garden sessions and al fresco dinners. When the temperature soars, our collective need for a good SPF skyrockets – but regardless of how fierce the sun feels, we should all in fact be wearing sun protection more often than we do.
“Most Londoners do not wear enough sunscreen day-to-day,” Marie Narsoomamode, senior dermatology nurse practitioner at Harley Street’s Cosmetic Skin Clinic, tells Broadsheet. “While we prioritise it on holiday, we often overlook it in London’s grey and rainy weather. However, the NHS and dermatologists recommend daily SPF 8, especially for the face.”
The task of finding the right sunscreen can be a little overwhelming. Chemical or mineral? SPF 30 or 50? Is the SPF in my moisturiser enough? How often should I reapply?
To get some clarity, Broadsheet spoke to Narsoomamode and cosmetic doctor and facial surgeon Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh, who operates a clinic in Marylebone. These are their seven top tips.
1. You should be applying sunscreen every day, even in winter
“The winter question is the one people get wrong,” says Sebagh. “UVA, the wavelength responsible for ageing rather than burning, is present all year round, on grey days as much as bright ones, and it passes straight through cloud and window glass. It’s present even in January. In a city you are also contending with pollution and HEV (blue light) from screens, both of which contribute to premature ageing. So daily protection is very important for a good skincare routine focused on longevity. Even when it is cloudy, I wear it, and I ask my patients to do the same.”
“For a normal London commute, a broad-spectrum SPF 30 is the recommended baseline,” agrees Narsoomamode. “If the UV index is three or higher, protection is necessary.”
2. Apply more than you think
Most people apply far too little, which is the quickest way to undermine an otherwise excellent sunscreen. For the face and neck, think roughly a quarter of a teaspoon, or the length of two fingers.
“Always apply sunscreen last in your skincare routine, after moisturiser but before make-up, and ideally 15 to 30 minutes before going outside,” says Narsoomamode. “Chemical SPF needs 20 minutes to activate, while mineral SPF works immediately. Then reapply every two hours, or immediately after swimming or sweating.”
3. Mineral or chemical is fine; what matters is that you stick to a routine
There is great debate around the pros and cons of mineral vs chemical sunscreen. Mineral filters – zinc oxide and titanium dioxide – sit on the surface and reflect light. “They are gentle, well-suited to sensitive or reactive skin, and effective the moment they are applied,” Sebagh says. “Historically, their drawback was a white cast, though modern formulations have largely resolved this.” Chemical sunscreens contain chemical compounds like avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate that absorb into the skin and convert UV into heat which is then released by your skin. They are typically lighter in texture without any white cast, but they need around 20 minutes to activate and can occasionally irritate.
“Both protect the skin; they simply do it differently,” says Sebagh. “In the end, the honest answer is that the best sunscreen is the one you will actually wear every day.”
Beauty retailer Cult Beauty is seeing a shift towards lightweight chemical SPF formulas that layer seamlessly under make-up, with glow-enhancing products and skincare-SPF hybrids becoming increasingly popular. Hannah Grimes, skincare buyer at Cult Beauty, says that high-performance chemical formulations with advanced UV protection, which also provide an easy-wear experience, are growing in popularity.
4. Don’t forget the kids
A great deal of our lifetime sun exposure happens before adulthood, so protecting children is very important. Narsoomamode says: “Children aged three and up should be wearing a mineral SPF daily,” and notes that the NHS recommends keeping babies under six months out of direct sunlight entirely.
Sebagh stresses that sunscreen should be the last line of defence here, not the first. “Shade, a hat and clothing do most of the work; sunscreen covers what remains exposed,” he says. “Choose a mineral formula, which is gentler on young skin, and apply it on bright days and holidays as a matter of course.”
5. Double the SPF is not double the protection
The SPF number refers to protection against UVB, the burning rays. The scale is not linear: SPF 15 blocks 93 per cent, SPF 30 filters around 97 per cent of UVB, SPF 50 around 98. The number does not indicate how long it lasts; all formulas require reapplication every two hours.
“Two things matter more than chasing the highest number,” says Sebagh. “First, that it is broad spectrum, meaning it also defends against UVA, the ageing rays. This is what to look for on the label. Second, that you apply enough, and consistently. For everyday life in the city, a broad-spectrum daily SPF you genuinely wear every morning does more for your skin than a factor 50 kept for holidays. For prolonged time in strong sun, at the beach, or on the slopes – then yes, reach for 50.”
6. Ensure your product has not expired
Sunscreen can go off and become ineffective. To check yours is in date, look for the small open-jar symbol on the packaging, which tells you how many months the product lasts once opened. It’s usually 12. “Heat accelerates the decline, so a bottle left in a hot car or on a sunny windowsill will degrade more quickly,” Sebagh says. “My advice is straightforward: replace it every year. And if you are applying as generously as you should, you will finish the bottle well within that time in any case.”
7. Know what to look for when buying an SPF
“When buying SPF, ensure the label specifies “broad spectrum” and features at least a four-star UVA rating or the UVA circle symbol”, says Narsoomamode, whose favourite brands for suncream are Heliocare and Obagi. “These two sunscreen products cover all skin types and cater for most kind of skin conditions.”
Five to try: sunscreens from London brands
The all-rounder: Elemis Pro-Collagen Skin Protection Fluid SPF 50, £55
The two-in-one SPF and skin-blurring primer: Dr Sebagh Vitamin C Brightening Primer SPF 15, £58
The dermatologist-designed protection: Dermatica SPF 50 Photodamage Defence Sunscreen, £15.95
The one that’s perfect for under make-up: Sarah Chapman Skin Insurance SPF 50 Invisible, £75
The beautifully tinted one: Trinny London BFF SPF 30 Cream, £41
