Pastry chef and multidisciplinary artist Adriann Ramirez – also known as @gay.nigella – has been creating joyful, seasonal bakes at Fink’s since 2017. In that time, the north London bakery and cafe, founded by Jess Blackstone and Mat Appleton, has expanded to five sites, most recently taking over the grand Grade-II listed building in Clissold Park, Stoke Newington. Under Ramirez’s direction, Fink’s delivers fresh bread and pastries to its venues each day, using ingredients from quality suppliers like Natoora and Shrub, and sustainably produced Wildfarmed flour. Ramirez’s endlessly creative bakes shift with the seasons; autumn could bring blackberry and bay leaf crème légère turnovers; Valentine’s Day specials might include rhubarb and vanilla sugar cookies.
But where does a top pastry chef go for a quick bite on their day off? And which other bakeries inspire them? Here, Ramirez shares his go-to breakfast spot, favourite restaurant to be in summer, and where to find a “life-changing” dal.
What are you loving about London’s restaurant scene at the moment?
I think there’s a return to classic dining food but with a far more relaxed approach to service and presentation that I find exciting. Accessibility is sexy to me.
Apart from Fink’s, where in London is doing exciting baked goods?
I love Rebecca [Spaven] and Oliver [Costello] of Toad Bakery’s take on pastries and bread. They’re fun, it’s cheeky and it’s always, most importantly, fucking delicious.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
Anyone who knows me knows that I fuck with a Five Guys burger HEAVILY. The love between me and a Five Guys is real and deep. Also, Sonora Taqueria [in Stoke Newington] has my whole heart. Everything they make is stunning. Michelle and Sam are fantastic humans and chefs.
It’s time to go all-out. Where are you booking?
I think Rochelle Canteen is still one of the most romantic places. I love the energy, I love the food, I love it all and in the summer it’s such a dream.
Where do you go to eat if you also want to have fun?
Depending on the kind of fun, but if you’re wanting glam and classic food, good drinks and good vibe, I love Quo Vadis. And if you’re lucky enough to see Jeremy Lee boppin’ around, what a treat.
You’ve got some friends visiting from out of town. Where are you taking them?
If not Rochelle Canteen (the wow factor of opening the gate into that Eden is such a moment), I think Spring is one of the most beautiful meals. And good dessert: finally, a restaurant who cares about its dessert menu.
If you’re after just a drink and a snack, where are you headed?
French House is fun and classic Soho energy, and the food is so good.
What’s your favourite breakfast spot?
Esters is one of the best places I have ever eaten. Their approach to seasonality is paramount and I truly could choose anything off the menu and it would be good. Nia [Burr] and Jack [Lloyd-Jones] have been making delicious food for years.
Is there a hidden gem in London you think is special and more people should know about?
The Great Indian in Archway is the best hidden gem. It’s in a former pub and the service is great; its 48-hour black dal is life-changing.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
I’ve recently become obsessed with coconut cream buns from Chinatown Bakery. Super soft, and the whipped cream has this slightly filmy quality to it, with the sweetness from the desiccated coconut. Gorgeous.
If you could try any restaurant in the world, where would you go?
I’d love to try Chez Panisse in Berkley, California. I’ve been to the cafe bit, but not the restaurant.
