It’s a good time to be a noodle fan in London, with a slate of new restaurants across multiple cuisines swirling all manner of noods onto plates and into bowls across the capital. Fend off the chilly weather with five of the newest to get into, from Thai coconut curry noodle soup to bowls of ramen by a master.
Poon’s, The Strand
One of the great pleasures of London life recently has been taking a seat in the pink-hued dining room at Poon’s in Somerset House; it feels like stepping into an ancient work of art. That pleasure is dialled up with any one of chef Amy Poon’s noodle dishes: a tangle of glass noodles riddled with puffed tofu, mushrooms and fermented red tofu sauce, perhaps, or the lunch-only zha jiang noodles, which are vivid red and topped with pork. There for a late-night meal? Opt for the “stand up” noodles, which are only available after 9pm, made using offcuts from the rest of the menu.
poonslondon.com
Khao-So-I, Fitzrovia
It may have come from the warmer climes of northern Thailand, but Khao-So-I’s eponymous coconut curry noodle soup also feels perfectly adapted to battling the London cold. The restaurant opened in London late last year, a few years after it started drawing queues for its khao soi in its native Chiang Mai. Chewy egg noodles come in a coconut soup with a punchy curry paste base amplified with chilli, lime and fresh herbs, plus extra fried egg noodles on the side for crunch. Toppings include Wagyu, langoustines and chicken.
khaosoilondon.com
Wonton Charlie’s, London Fields
An old train ticket office at London Fields has become something entirely different: a lunch-only noodle bar. Specifically, a lunch-only wonton noodle soup bar. Wonton Charlie’s is the first foray into Hong Kong cuisine by the group behind Daddy Bao in Tooting and Peckham’s Mr Bao. The result is steaming bowls of noodles in a chicken or fish broth, with a choice of three fillings: prawn, pork or fish skin. Every dish is made at an open kitchen at the heart of the restaurant, replicating the buzz of a Hong Kong diner in east London.
@wontoncharlies
Ivan Ramen, Clerkenwell
Ramen master Ivan Sorkin has hosted a slew of pop-ups and residencies in London over the years – and last year, he finally went permanent in a pocket-sized space in Clerkenwell. The native New Yorker fell for ramen while living in Tokyo, where he immersed himself in ramen culture and eventually opened a ramen joint, getting the nod of approval from local chefs and critics. More spots in New York followed, plus an appearance on Netflix’s Chef’s Table. Now, he’s brought his signature noodle soups to Ivan Ramen London, including tonkotsu, creamy chicken paitan and spicy miso ramen – all a worthy foil to the dreary winter weather.
ivanramen.co.uk
Khao Bird, Soho
Pop-up Thai diner Khao Bird went permanent in Soho last year with an ever-changing menu of hyper-regional dishes – including its own take on Chiang Mai’s khao soi. Here, the coconut broth is splashed with dark soy to amp up the savoury notes, there’s chilli relish for spice, and it has a choice of two toppings: barbequed lemongrass chicken or smoked beef brisket. Pair it with a mango sticky rice cocktail and you’ll be transported to the hills of northern Thailand.
khaobird.com
Additional reporting by Angela Hui and Kate Ng.
