The show-stopping design is the first thing you notice when stepping into Moi, a new Japanese-inspired restaurant on Wardour Street. It’s the first of a collection of restaurants harnessing open-fire cooking by newly formed hospitality group Mad Restaurants, helmed by Artem Login (who is behind the L’Eto group of cafes). Split across two levels – with an omakase-style sushi bar, listening room and private dining for 20 people – Moi makes liberal use of poured concrete and reclaimed timbers, including in the Jenga-like bar guests encounter as they enter.
And while dramatic decor like Moi’s – in this case conceptualised by design firm Yodezeen – is often wielded to disguise a lack of finesse on the plate, the food menu is resolutely clever and intriguing, blending British seasonal produce with traditional Japanese technique and flavours. It’s the work of the aptly named executive chef Andy Cook (who has opened venues internationally for Gordon Ramsay) and head chef Nick Tannett (ex-Evernight).
“I think Japanese food in London has been really misrepresented – we’ve had high-end, quite flashy places that have dominated for the last 15 to 20 years, interspersed more recently with some very exclusive, high-price-point sushi and omakase,” Cook tells Broadsheet. His own approach toes the line between fusion and inspiration, and aims to bring a more casual style of Japanese dining. “In Japan, there has been a whole new generation of chefs who are thinking outside the box.”
This has culminated in menu highlights like steamed fried buns designed for swiping through whipped cod’s roe and house-made chilli oil. “The creaminess of cod’s roe is something that lends itself really well to taking on flavours,” says Cook. “[It adds] a salty, umami flavour to dishes.” Another umami thwack comes via the soy base of the standout silken tofu, which gets a textural boost with buckwheat.
Cook and his team harness a range of techniques and traditions to turn British produce into Japanese-style dishes. There’s a separate menu of sushi and sashimi, plus a grill fired by a range of fuels: binchotan (white coals), oak and birch. “We have carefully chosen the woods used to cook over, selecting which ingredients and flavours will be brought to life,” says Cook. “It lets the produce do the talking.”
There’s a constantly evolving list of low-intervention and biodynamic wines from small-scale producers – and by-the-glass options are poured from kegs, ensuring longevity and freshness. And, keeping things local, saké is from Kanpai in Bermondsey and beers are from Orbit in Walworth.
A dramatic, curving poured-concrete staircase leads from the ground-floor dining room to the listening room, which mirrors those found in Tokyo and Shinjuku in its intimate design. It has a bespoke sound system from London speaker designer Friendly Pressure and in the coming months will host guest residencies and takeovers by vinyl DJs.
Despite its glitzy design, Cook is clear about Moi’s intentions. “We wanted to bring something different – more relaxed, which I think suits Soho.”
Moi
84 Wardour Street, London W1F 0TQ
020 4628 0115
Hours:
Tue to Sat midday–2.30pm, 6pm–10pm
Sun 12.30pm–3.30pm