For more than a decade Michael Sager has been at the forefront of London’s drinks scene. Sager & Wilde, the Hackney wine bar he founded in 2013, helped drive a new movement of unpretentious wine bars that poured great drops by the glass, with natural wines sitting beside more classic bottles, all at reasonable prices. Nearby Equal Parts opened as the city started falling for aperitif culture, while Bruno in Victoria Park Village launched right in time to capture London’s obsession with biodynamic wine and multi-part venues, transforming from a bottle shop during the day into a wine bar and restaurant in the evening.
What we’re saying, is that Sager knows wine, he knows food – and so we asked him where he eats and where he drinks around the capital.
Hi Michael! Can you tell us about yourself – what do you do and why do you do it?
I run three venues within a few streets of each other in east London – Sager & Wilde on Hackney Road (wine-led, my identity anchor); Equal Parts (cocktails and vinyl, run day-to-day by my GM Adam); and Bruno in Victoria Park Village, named after my father. I also run a small natural wine import business called Sager & Wine alongside it all. I love it because taste, culture and business all have to agree with each other every single night – there’s nowhere to hide.
What’s exciting you about London’s drinks scene right now?
There’s a new opening worth knowing about almost every week, but what excites me more is what’s underneath that: because London never had its own wine culture to fall back on, we’ve had to learn every region properly, which makes it the richest tapestry for a wine drinker anywhere. On the cocktail side, London’s still setting the pace globally, and right now my favourite room for that is Bar Lotus on Kingsland Road.
What drink do you see gaining momentum in London? Where does it well?
Orange wine properly went mainstream a while back – it’s not a niche order anymore. What’s interesting now is chilled red: red is the new orange. For a great version, head to 107 on Lower Clapton Road.
What’s your favourite London wine list?
Hector’s. There’s no list as such, but Jimmy [Stephenson] has one of the deepest and best cellars in town – you just tell him what you’re after and let him lead.
What’s your quick takeaway of choice?
Etles in east London, without question. It’s proper Uyghur cooking, and their offal dishes in particular are some of the most special food I’ve eaten in years. With it I’d pour something with real grip and a bit of spice-friendly warmth – an Austrian blaufränkisch or a Jura-style trousseau, structured enough to stand up to the offal without fighting it.
What’s your favourite coffee spot?
Honestly, home – I’m particular to the point of being tedious about it, with six different brewers on rotation depending on mood. Outside the house, Simmos in Hackney Wick is the single best place – ask for Xiaoye, her recommendations are always right.
It’s date night. Where are you heading?
Leo’s on Chatsworth Road – still my favourite room in London. One of the most exciting Italian cellars in the city, and Beppe [Belvedere]’s cooking is stunning.
Tell us about the best or most interesting restaurant you’ve been to lately.
Dalla on Morning Lane. Mitchell’s cooking, paired with his genuinely exciting wine cellar makes the place a standout – exactly the kind of chef-owner spot I love.
What’s a hidden gem more Londoners should know about?
Bar Bruno, though I’m obviously biased. It’s a converted stable near Victoria Park, small and unpretentious, with bottles bought direct from growers I actually know. I live less than 100 metres away, so it’s less a discovery for me than a daily habit.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
Furuhem in Sweden – Magnus Nilsson’s new place after Faviken. Incredible, remote location with a guesthouse attached; the kind of trip that’s as much about the place and the stay as the meal itself.
