Hannah Crosbie: London's Best English Sparkling Wine

A venue’s by-the-glass offering is an indication of many things. It’s an introduction to the wine list at large but also emblematic of the establishment as a whole. And those who make noise about their local produce might do the same for their wine list.

English sparkling needs no introduction, but there are some inventive new varieties on offer across town that make for an excellent festive toast. Here are three to seek out.

Aulis’s farm-to-fork ethos is reflected in its own-label English sparkling. Head sommelier Charles Carron Brown was instrumental in developing the textural rosé sparkling, which is made by Wiston Estate in West Sussex and spends three years on the lees. He also offers sparkling by Langham, Everflyht and Oxney by the glass, so you can choose your own adventure. “The experience is in the guests’ hands, and that’s how it should be,” he says.

Although a Greek restaurant might not be the first place you’d expect to find a vintage English sparkling by the glass, the offering at Oma begs for it. Alongside a sparkling xinomavro and blanc de noirs, you’ll find a rosé brut from Rathfinny. “It’s something that goes well with the breads and spreads at the start of the menu,” says front-of-house manager Siobhan Love. I agree: tart raspberries cut through the creaminess of the labneh, and notes of quince jelly brighten the smoke of the baba ganoush.

English sparkling is typically made using the same method as champagne (with two fermentations and a disgorgement), but winemakers using the col fondo method don’t disgorge the yeast cells from the bottle, making for a bready, more rustic style. “Sourcing locally made wines aligns with our ingredient sourcing,” explains Emily Estlin, Elliot’s group wine buyer. “It’s important to support those who produce wines and farm in ways we champion.”

This article originally appeared in the second issue of the Broadsheet* London magazine.*