Artist’s jewellery in London is thriving. This type of jewellery is considered wearable art that tells a story, often using non-precious metals or found materials to create emotional resonance and express creativity. In the UK, those making this jewellery are rich in adventurous ideas and are increasingly creating gender-neutral designs.
“Artist’s jewellery was once a marker of status and wealth,” says Corinne Julius, a design critic, curator and self-confessed “jewellery-oholic”. “It may still be about status but more about the wearer’s personal style and insider knowledge. I always say I’m wearing a slice of a designer’s brain – a jeweller’s ideas and a narrative. Much artist’s jewellery is not about precious metals or gemstones but is made of found materials, wood, plastic and textiles; it’s about conveying ideas not prettiness.”
Here are four cutting-edge UK jewellers to watch out for.
Kristina Merchant
Scotland-based jeweller Kristina Merchant’s work embodies the democratic and autobiographical approach that helps define this style of jewellery. “I’m drawn to discarded things – bottle tops, cigarette butts,” she says. “My nana ran pubs and I grew up surrounded by such objects.” Her designs include earrings and pendants replicating stubbed-out cigarettes; the glowing “butts” are made of hand-carved Baltic amber, the “cigarette paper” of sterling silver or gold. Her cufflinks and brooches mimick crown bottle tops. Detritus might inspire the maker, but her pieces are exquisite and glamorous.
kristinamerchant.com
Holly O’Hanlon
From her studio in Farringdon, Holly O’Hanlon hand-crafts rings, necklaces, earrings and pins using recycled precious metals, diamonds and freshwater pearls. She subtly subverts the classic pearl, which is typically valued for its symmetry. “I cut, grind and refine each pearl by hand, and pair its organic softness with the hard-edged gold settings, creating an interplay of delicacy and strength.” She also reimagines humble cable ties or staples as elegant gold earrings and rings. She has exhibited her work at the prestigious Goldsmiths jewellery fair in London, and her pieces are available at Dover Street Market.
hollyohanlon.com
Poppy Norton
Poppy Norton’s jewellery is proudly intrinsic to an outfit, not subsidiary to it. Heavily influenced by the 20th-century Bauhaus German design school, her work often combines flat geometric forms in brushed silver or brass and is sometimes inlaid with acrylic in peppy shades. “My pieces are intended to look bold and stylish, not be symbols of wealth. I love brooches and the fact more men wear them on the red carpet.” The north London maker’s genderless jewellery is regularly exhibited at the Goldsmiths’ Fair.
poppynorton.com
Castro Smith
Castro Smith, who trained in The Goldsmiths’ Company’s apprenticeship scheme in the City of London, works from a studio at creative incubator Cockpit Arts in Holborn. He deploys an ancient reverse-engraving technique – seal-engraving – to create his colourful signet rings, pendants and earrings carved with imagery inspired by nature and mythology. “The jewellery market is still polarised by different markets [for men and women], but I sit between a genderless demand,” he says. “Funnily enough I want floral motifs in pink, [but] women like deadly images like scorpions or apples eaten by centipedes.” He has shown his work at London galleries Louisa Guinness and Elisabetta Cipriani.
castrosmith.com
