Savile Row is synonymous with style and craftsmanship – but equally elegant drinking and dining options? Not so much. Dorothy’s, the all-day caffe, bar and restaurant by Wendover (the design and development practice behind Foreign Exchange and Sol’s in Bayswater and Chiltern Street’s Shreeji Newsagents) that opens on June 17, is on track to change that, by taking cues from the elegant caffe culture of continental landmarks like Loos American Bar in Vienna and Milan’s Pasticceria Cova.
Wendover is known for taking places built to be prosaic – a currency exchange, a newsagent – and elevating them into beautiful destinations. “Whenever we open these places, we assume that no one’s going to come,” Wendover co-founder Gabriel Chipperfield tells Broadsheet. “[It’s] terrible, but it does quite well … because we don’t take anything for granted, we just say ‘Let’s make it a beautiful place that we can enjoy, and we’ll grow from there’.”
Chipperfield and his team have completely transformed what used to be the atelier of tailor William Hunt into a space that recalls pre-war European caffes and bars. The intention was to make something “beautiful and glamorous, at the same time as being inviting”, Chipperfield says. Split across two levels, it’s panelled with British oak burl, and the richly veined marble counters and flooring is rose-coloured Breccia Damascata marble. In the centre of the room is a raised counter, and the room is fringed with marble-topped tables and bentwood chairs, as well as pistachio green leather banquettes and standing ledges for downing morning espressos.
Uniforms nod to the location. “We knew the pressure of being on Savile Row and needing to look good – but not too good,” Chipperfield says. “This is about the diners and their experience, rather than some sort of staff fashion show.” The uniforms are by menswear designer Sirplus, around the corner on Piccadilly. Comprising chore jackets, they lightly nod to the suits worn by The Beatles – the venue is opposite the former HQ of Apple, The Beatles’s record label, where the Fab Four played their infamous final show.
Harry Farrow, Wendover’s head of hospitality, says the menu by chef Kyran McAdam (ex-Toklas Bakery head chef), is “nice and simple”, made using “really good produce” – suppliers include Natoora and Cibo. Brioche buns stuffed with mortadella, stracciatella and other fillings will be a highlight, and are available to order as an accompaniment to morning coffee or with a glass of wine in the afternoons. Open bagels topped with smoked salmon and cream cheese or jamon are also available, as is a rotating selection of seasonal dishes including peaches and mozzarella. Dorothy’s will also stock St John doughnuts. In the afternoons, the menu transitions into aperitivo-style dishes like melon with prosciutto and chickpea panisse. Come July, an evening menu will launch with larger plates like lobster with aioli and veal tonnato.
The drinks list features wines from both local and international producers, running from Basque Country txakoli to Sicilian skin contact and Valencian sparkling. Cocktails wink to the location – including the Ray Dagger, which is named after the police officer who tried to arrest The Beatles during their rooftop gig. There’ll also be classic cocktails and mini Martinis. “We really want to encourage people to come in for a Martini at lunchtime,” Farrow says.
Like Europe’s classic caffes, Chipperfield and Farrow want Dorothy’s to become part of the fabric of the neighbourhood – a place used by the local community to suit whichever needs they have. “Between the tailoring houses and the private equity offices and the museums and galleries, we want this to be everyone’s local,” Chipperfield says.
“We want it to be a community,” Farrow adds. “We’re aware that we are in a central location, and anyone who wants to come is very welcome. But we very much want it to be an asset to the existing clientele that are already around. Location-wise it’s completely iconic. To be able to do something like [this] on this street is a complete privilege.”
Dorothy’s
41 Savile Row, W1S 3QQ
Hours:
Tue to Sat 8.30am–7pm
