British Sri Lankan chef Cynthia Shanmugalingam grew up in Coventry – but mealtimes were all about Sri Lankan food. It’s this background that fed into her 2022 cookbook Rambutan, and into her Borough Market restaurant of the same name, which she opened in 2023. It’s been praised for its vibrant Sri Lankan cooking: rich and zesty curries, crunchy mutton rolls and a signature saffron chicken rice dish, amped up by cooking a pearl-shaped variety of rice in coconut milk with spices. “My family is Tamil, from the northern-most tip of Sri Lanka,” Shanmugalingam tells Broadsheet. “The restaurant is an homage to all the auntie recipes and delicious village-style dishes I grew up eating in England and Sri Lanka.”
Shanmugalingam lives in the heart of Borough Market, so is utterly steeped in the capital’s food scene. Here she shares where she eats and drinks around town.
Hi Cynthia. What’s exciting you about London’s food scene at the moment?
As the summer starts, amazing ice-cream is popping up everywhere, and I’m afraid I’ve got a typical Sri Lankan sweet tooth and can never resist. [I like] Soft & Swirly, La Gelateria Della Una, and a new Soho parlour from Ice Cream Union. Ruby Tandoh’s new [best ice-cream in London] list comes out later in the month – I can’t wait to try them all.
When you feel like Sri Lankan food – aside from your own – where do you head?
Always south to Tooting or east to East Ham. One of my favourites is Sambal Express. I pick up a box of 50 string hoppers and sodhi and sambal, and a few stuffed rotis, and fry some fish at home to eat with it all.
What’s your pick for lunch on the go?
It’s a massive lunch, but the banh mi from Baguette King on Southwark Park Road is delicious and very generous: lots of rich pate and then delicious pickles and a nice crispy baguette.
Where do you love for coffee?
I live practically above Monmouth in Borough Market and it’s consistently the most delicious coffee, the loveliest atmosphere, the loveliest staff and delicious bakes and treats. It’s had queues for 40 years for a reason!
Tell us your special occasion favourite.
I just went to Impala for a date night with my husband and it was unbelievably chic: sexy service and atmosphere, lovely sound system and the food was so perfect – all glimmering coals and warm flavours like harissa and cumin and pomegranate, full of personality and lightness.
If you’re after a good drink and snack, where are you going?
I’d have some elderflower fritters and the starters, and a delicious wine by the glass at 40 Maltby Street. It’s always so seasonal, so creative, and the staff are always encouraging you to try a new wine in a very warm and friendly way.
Your favourite London breakfast?
I love a big mezze Turkish breakfast at Hanimeli in Stoke Newington. I used to go every week with my old flatmates Sarah and Katja, who are both chefs, and we would eat all the little plates: different cheese, grape molasses, tahini, freshly baked breads – perfect.
Where do you buy groceries?
I live in Borough Market and am spoiled to [be able to] buy vegetables and meat from The Ginger Pig and Hickson & Daughter, and cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy. Once or twice a month I go to East Ham and do a big shop of spices and rice from South India from the cash and carry.
What’s a hidden gem more Londoners should know about?
I think the Korean husband and wife team [Woongchul Park and Bomee Ki] at Sollip cook beautiful, outstanding food with such care and precision. They are all heart and warmth, and London is lucky to have them!
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
I’d love to go to Chez Panisse in Berkeley [California]. It has informed so many of the cooks and restaurants I love and I’ve never been. I’m not sure if I’ll ever get out to San Francisco. But I’d love to go. It’s the OG.
