Aji Akokomi opened his West African restaurant Akoko in 2020. Along with chefs like Adejoké Bakare of Chishuru, Akokomi has been at the forefront of a movement proving West African food is as worthy of fine dining treatment as any other cuisine. And London agreed: diners have flocked to feast on Akoko’s elegant takes on traditional Nigerian, Senegalese and Ghanaian dishes, and in 2024 the Fitzrovia restaurant was awarded a Michelin star. In 2023 Akokomi opened Akara, a more casual spot in Borough Yards that’s centred around the akara: a fritter made from black-eyed peas.
Akokomi knows how to draw diners in with big-hearted, big-flavoured food – but we wondered what London spots he feels drawn to. Below, he shares his picks for special occasions, where he heads on date night, gets a coffee fix and his go-to for a quick lunch.
What’s happening on the London food scene that’s exciting you right now?
It’s been a challenging period for restaurants with rising costs and tighter regulations definitely taking their toll. But what continues to excite me about London is the resilience and creativity of chefs. There’s still an incredible breadth of cuisines here, and people are digging deeper into their own heritage and telling more personal stories through food. That feels important.
Aside from your own venues, where do you go for a great West African meal?
I really enjoy Chishuru in Fitzrovia. Adejoké Bakare’s cooking feels thoughtful and grounded, blending the flavours of different regions in West Africa. There's heat, there’s spice, there’s fire, but it’s all very considered and captures the soul of West African cooking in a way that feels both respectful and progressive.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
You can’t really go wrong with a good burger. Heard does it properly and [owner] Jordan Bailey approaches it with the same seriousness you’d apply to fine dining – from the sourcing to the balance, the texture. It’s comfort food, but you can feel the craft behind it.
You’re on the go and need lunch – where’s good?
Atis is always a safe bet. It’s straightforward, fresh and customisable, which suits busy days. I tend to go for something with grains and plenty of vegetables so that it’s light enough to keep you moving, but satisfying. I love the variety that it offers and like to try different collaborations or menu features whenever I visit.
What’s your favourite coffee spot?
I like Kaffeine in central London. It’s consistent, and with coffee consistency matters. There are so many flavourings and extras that people want in their coffees, but Kaffeine is no-nonsense, has a high attention to detail and delivers a quality experience.
It’s date night. Where are you booking?
Date night deserves intention and I think a great place to reflect that is Kitchen Table on Charlotte Street. Sitting at the counter watching the team work is immersive and personal. I think being that close to the action is intimate in a way and the theatre of it all makes it feel special.
What’s your special-occasion restaurant?
A Wong always feels celebratory and special. There’s a real elegance and precision to the cooking, but also a warmth synonymous with Chinese hospitality. The level of research and respect behind each dish is something I admire.
Where do you take visitors from out of town?
I often take people to Borough as it has such buzzy energy. Pyro is one I enjoy for its generosity and fire-led cooking. It’s relaxed but confident, and good for sharing, which makes it perfect when you’re introducing people to the city.
What’s your top spot for a drink and snack?
The Lobby Bar at the London Edition has a great atmosphere and bar. It manages to feel intimate without being quiet and there’s always a buzz. It’s somewhere you can have a proper cocktail, and a proper conversation.
Your favourite breakfast spot?
For breakfast, I like going to Hide. There’s a calmness to the space that makes it a good place to start the day properly. The cooking is precise without feeling heavy, and it’s somewhere you can sit, gather your thoughts and ease into the day.
For a long lunch, where are you going?
If I have the time to really settle in, I’d head to Bibi in Mayfair. Chet Sharma’s cooking carries a real sense of story where you can taste memory and travel in the dishes. It’s layered and expressive, and that makes it ideal for a long lunch where you can slow down, share plates and have proper conversation.
What’s a hidden London gem more people should know about?
One place I think deserves more attention is Khao-So-i in Fitzrovia. Their khao soi is deeply aromatic and beautifully layered, and is rich but balanced, comforting but complex. It’s the kind of dish that stays with you after you’ve finished it.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
There are a few places I’d love to experience, all for different reasons. Tresind Studio in Dubai for its modern, technical interpretation of Indian cuisine; Ynyshir in Machynlleth, Wales for its intensity and boldness; and Knystaforsen in Rydöbruk, Sweden for its deep connection to nature and seasonality.
I’ve always admired The Fat Duck in Bray for changing the conversation around dining in Britain, and Firedoor in Surry Hills, Sydney for its uncompromising approach to cooking with fire.
Closer to home, Opheem in Birmingham and Roots in York both represent chefs with a strong point of view and a clear sense of identity and that’s what really draws me in.
