Specialty coffee is on the rise in London. Over the last few years, attention has shifted from latte art to the importance of provenance and flavour, with smaller batch, hand-picked, high-quality beans becoming the star at a slew of independent openings.
Since opening the first Rosslyn Coffee on Queen Victoria Street in February 2018, founder James Hennebry has seen interest in specialty coffee go from strength to strength. “Our goal is to help to make London the global leader for high-volume specialty coffee, but we also wanted it to be the kind of coffee shop that people would enjoy visiting every day. Great coffee, community and just a nice place to be,” Hennebry tells Broadsheet.
Now with six branches across the City of London, multiple awards and queues out the door, Hennebry is convinced that this is a pivotal moment for London’s coffee scene. “I worked in the coffee industry in Melbourne from 2011 to 2015, a time that has since been widely regarded as the ‘golden age’ of specialty coffee there,” he says. “I believe we are experiencing a similar burst here and would not be surprised at all if we all look back on this period as a similar golden age for specialty coffee in London.
“I’m incredibly grateful to live in London during this time,” says Hennebry. “This city is filled with young, energetic entrepreneurial coffee professionals who are working on projects that continue to elevate the specialty coffee scene. I see more independent coffee shops opening around greater London, not just central, supplying a growing market that is under supplied.”
It’s not just good coffee that makes a good coffee shop – it’s the full experience. “Coffee is no different to most culinary fields. A great offering requires intentionality and a considered approach from someone who takes pride in what they do. A lot of it comes down to hospitality and nailing the basics as opposed to peacocking,” says Hennebry.
As for what’s next for London’s caffeine scene? “I reckon that in six to 12 months’ time, the coffee scene will be even better than it is now. For me that’s really something to be extremely excited about.”
Here are the 10 speciality coffee shops that Hennebry is excited about right now, from a community and coffee hub to an ode to Vietnamese coffee.
Blas, Victoria Park
“[Blas is] bringing Formative coffee to Victoria Park and life back into a beautiful old building.” Blas is set in a former chapel from the 1900s and has regular guest roasters.
@blaslondon
Running Late, Hackney
“I can’t think of many cafes that contribute more to the local community than what Tom [Gathercole] and Sean [Geraghty] have created here.” Alongside brewing Ozone coffee, the cafe hosts a slate of clubs for the local community, including a run club, a book club and weekly Pilates classes.
@runninglatecoffee
Day Trip, De Beauvoir Town
“My favourite opening of the past 12 months, spearheaded by Douglas [Condé], one of the nicest in the game.” Day Trip is operated by the team behind Goodbye Horses and specialises in pour-over coffee.
@daytripcoffeeldn
Special Guests, Marylebone
“Everyone was watching what multiple barista champion Paul Ross would do [next], and he has nailed it with one of the best new coffee shops anywhere in the world.” It has a regularly rotating selection of beans sourced from around the world.
@specialguestscoffee
Moonstruck, Stockwell
“Former Rosslyn team member Liam Clifford has consistently offered one of the best coffee programmes south of the river since opening Moonstruck [in 2024].” In a slick space it serves coffee from Plot, as well as a regularly rotating selection from international producers – plus, its downstairs houses a not-for-profit exhibition space.
@moonstruck.cafe
Calico, Waterloo
“A beautifully considered space and selection set behind Waterloo Station.” It sources its coffee from everywhere from Ethiopia to China and Kenya, and offers tastings to educate customers on brewing and flavour. @calico_coffee_uk
Sofu, Clerkenwell
“An outstanding contribution to the London coffee community. The menu offers some curve balls in the best possible way.” Think alcohol and coffee pop-ups, pastries with Asian-inspired flavours and a good selection of teas.
@sofu.coffee
Foreign Exchange News, Bayswater
“Aesthetically my favourite new opening across London, this former foreign exchange serves 15 Grams coffee from Greenwich and is part of a blossoming culinary community on Leinster Terrace.” It’s owned by design studio Wendover Partners – which explains its schmick mid century-inspired fitout – and as well as coffee, it has a newsstand stocking magazines.
@foreignexchangenews
Nagare, Soho
“The second of Nagare’s three sites brings a much-needed coffee contribution to the West End. Their other sites in Spitalfields and Bankside are equally triumphant.” Nagare is a Japanese cafe – it means flow in Japanese – and hosts cupping sessions, collaborates with the likes of Tate’s in-house roastery on beans and has a rotation of guest roasters.
@nagarecoffee
Zero to One, Spitalfields
“Another former Rosslyn team member, with an ode to Vietnamese coffee and everything it offers.” Zero-to-One hopes to improve the reputation of robusta beans, with its coffee sourced from the Vietnamese highlands. @zerotoone.coffee.uk
Find Rosslyn coffee shops across the City of London. www.rosslyncoffee.com @rosslyncoffee
