Ben Lippett’s new series is one show about apprentices we can get behind. Named Stage, it sees the chef, food writer and co-founder of event series Pears For Lunch join restaurant kitchens for one-day stages – short unpaid internships or apprenticeships to teach new or established chefs fresh skills and techniques. So far in the series, he’s deboned a pig’s head and worked the pans at Elliot Hashtroudi’s bistro Camille, and made corn cakes and lobster eggs benedict at Mayfair restaurant Hide’s notoriously popular breakfast service. Three more episodes are in the pipeline for autumn.
“The idea of this is kind of like restaurant journalism, but to show people [restaurants] from a different angle,” Lippett tells Broadsheet. “So often it’s from the perspective of the dining room. We just basically drop me in – there’s no TV magic, I really do go and do a shift – like the Camille episode was a full double. There’s a good dose of jeopardy in it.”
Beyond the stress, though, Lippett says the series – which is sponsored by Belazu – is “about celebrating good cooks and good cooking – and also the differences between the restaurants, whether it’s the food, the atmosphere in the kitchen, it’s all very different. Also, in a self-interested way, I really miss being in kitchens. The rate at which you learn when you go somewhere new is amazing.”
Lippett says that while the show is entertaining, it’s also instructive. “The fact that Belazu are in every single episode is nice. They’re a nice bridge between the viewers and the actual kitchen – all of the things that we use, like the vinegar in the Camille episode, you can buy. We do little recipe segments in the videos, and it shows that the restaurant food is inspired and beautiful and delicious, but ultimately it’s not super complex.”
In between stages, Lippett shared with * Broadsheet* where he eats when he’s not deboning pigs or prepping hundreds of breakfast in a single morning, from where he goes for date night to his top spot to take out-of-towners.
Hi Ben! What’s exciting you about London’s dining scene at the moment?
It’s not necessarily new, it’s just that I’m finding more restaurants – it’s Filipino food. I’ve been discovering places that have been there a long time. There’s a place in Charlton that I’m dying to go to called Inihaw, because I’ve been swimming at the lido over the summer, and I was looking at places I’d go for dinner after. I was chatting to somebody about it, and they’re just reeling off all these amazing Filipino restaurants that I’m embarrassed to say I haven’t visited. But that’s what I’m keen to get into at the moment. I’m [also] excited about Kid. I think that’s going to be really cool. Everything that David [Carter] does is wicked.
You cooked breakfast at Hide for Stage. Where else do you like to go for breakfast?
I’m not a massive breakfast man. But if I’m going out with [wife] Lou, I’ll probably go to Good as Gold in Brockley. They do a very lovely breakfast, because it’s a little bit different. I’m not a great fan of the full English. They have shatta eggs, which is fried eggs and a really nice green hot sauce they make.
Where do you head for coffee?
There’s a lovely little cafe called Daydreamer in Honor Oak Park, which is by the guys from Elsewhere [roastery]. Anywhere that serves Elsewhere coffee, I really love.
What’s your pick for date night?
Quality Wines in Farringdon, or Vesper. If I can’t get into Quality Wines, I go to Vesper, because it’s around the corner. At Quality Wines, the tables are tiny, and it feels like a really special restaurant, you drink nice wine, and all the food is very light, and not shouty or like “pick me”. It feels quite sexy. Also, in the winter it gets all steamy inside. Some people hate that. I really like it. You can’t really see what’s going on inside.
Aside from the Pears For Lunch event series you run, where do you go for a fun meal out?
Well, I would go for Black Axe Mangal, but it’s closed. I go out with all my mates once a month for a big dinner, and we went to DakaDaka on Heddon Street recently. The cocktails were so good, and the food is all to share, it’s really loud, it’s dark, everyone’s yelling at each other. It’s fun, and the food is wicked.
Where do you take out-of-towners?
Probably The French House. It’s a quintessential London experience. I’d get a little table in the window and have some of Neil [Borthwick]’s delicious cooking. Or I’d play the hits – go to St John, Moro, Quality Chop House, The Eagle. I think Exmouth Market is a really good place to take out-of-towners. But I think my first stop would be a half pint then lunch upstairs at The French House.
What’s a local favourite in your neighbourhood?
Probably Skehan’s Free House, the pub at the end of my road. You’ll find me there often, and the guys who own it are brilliant. We did our first Pears For Lunch event there. We had The Pogues play. You can go and have like six pints of Guinness and a lot of delicious Thai food. It’s always busy, I always know someone in there. I also would take out-of-towners there, for sure.
What’s a hidden gem more people should now about?
Uncle Wrinkle on New Cross Road, which is a Chinese takeaway. But the move is, don’t take away – go and sit down. It has two big round tables in there, and you end up sharing with a bunch of random people. Order the crispy chilli beef. Also along that road, if you carry on it becomes Lewisham Way, and there’s a Chinese place called Dr Noodle, it’s fucked up, it’s so delicious.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
The Ledbury. The Michelin guide doesn’t get me fired up, but there are a couple of places [on it] which really pique my interest. The Ledbury just feels like this pedestalled magic place.
Any other London faves?
Wildflowers, I absolutely love, and not enough people shout its praises. It’s in Pimlico and it’s absolutely delightful. Bocca Di Lupo has been around forever, but it doesn’t come up a lot in conversation. But the food there is really cool – and crucially, you can go there by yourself and sit at the bar, and they’ll do you half portions of things. There’s not many places in Soho that just cater for one person that well. They do raw sea bass with orange and rosemary as a half portion – that is fucking amazing.
The first two episodes of Stage by Ben Lippett are live on Youtube now.
