“Creating All Roads has been one of the hardest things we’ve ever done, but it’s also shown us what’s possible when two people back themselves fully.”
All Roads is the story of a couple who decided they didn’t want to work for other people anymore – and learned to follow their own instincts to create something special, which has just culminated in a permanent 35-seat restaurant in Brixton serving dishes blending Caribbean cuisine with British, European and southern American influences. Malika Green and Paschelle Brown met 13 years ago working in a restaurant. And while they both went onto have successful careers – Green in the kitchen and front of house in restaurants like Patty & Bun and Daddy Bao, as well as developing cocktail menus; Brown in managerial roles at the likes of Soho House and Lai Rai – they yearned to do things their own way.
“We’d spent years leading teams, opening restaurants, building businesses for other people and putting everything we had into the industry,” the pair tells Broadsheet. “Along the way, we also noticed there were fewer and fewer women in senior operational roles. Hospitality can be tough, and for women especially, there often feels like there’s a limit on how long you’re expected to keep up the pace before moving on.”
“We knew we weren’t ready to leave hospitality,” they continue. “We had loads to give. What we did know was that if we were going to work this hard, we wanted to build something that reflected us.”
The result? All Roads, which began three years ago as a supper club. The concept was to bring diners together over great food and music (Green is also a DJ) – fostering a community of loyal regulars. Soon, the supper clubs began selling out quickly, and after a few years, the couple starting looking for a permanent home for All Roads.
“We had a few non-negotiables: community, a corner site, space to make an impact, exposed brick, high ceilings and those perfect imperfections that give a place character,” they explain. “This site ticked every box.”
Brixton – with its buzzing creative energy, diversity and independent businesses – aligned perfectly with the couple’s ethos. Situated in the beating heart of the market, All Roads is a relaxed 35-cover restaurant with a terrace. Diners can take a seat at a table by the window, or up at the bar beside bottle-green tiles.
And while the setting feels casual, this is serious cooking. The menu, designed to be shared, features favourites from the supper club, including sweet tea chicken and mac and cheese with greens. But, having a permanent kitchen has allowed them to focus more on grill cooking: mains centre on low-and-slow cooking, like pork chops served with pimento peppercorn sauce and buttered apple with thyme. Desserts lean southern American: pies, house-made ice-creams and seasonal cobblers.
“We’re focused on full flavour without the pretence,” the couple says. “Bold, balanced plates that lean into sweet, savoury and spicy flavours.”
The “approachable” drinks list follows suit. Green draws on her experience designing cocktail menus for Cafe Kowloon and Daddy Bao with highlights like the AR Daiquiri, with white rum, pineapple and scotch bonnet jam, and Mad Marge, blending tequila, lime, chilli and coconut.
“The result is something we’re incredibly proud of,” the couple says, reflecting on the journey from supper club to permanent restaurant. “Something beautiful that wouldn’t exist without both of us.”
All Roads
44 Atlantic Road, SW9 8JN
Hours:
Wed & Thu 5pm–10pm
Fri midday–3pm, 5pm–11.30pm
Sat midday–11.30pm
Sun midday–6pm
